July 1914: Echoes of War (3-4)

LAH Bulkeley Norwegian Diary  pages 3-4
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ViktoriaLouise
The Viktoria Luise in her white livery as a cruise ship.

Stalheim_Photochrom_LOCSUNDAY We steamed up the dark and frowning Naero Fjord (quite the finest1 & obtained a view of one Victoria Luise whose arrival and chartering of stolkjaerre for the Stalheim drive had caused us to slightly alter our time-table. On this drive the Baxter party, somewhat inflated, had no room for Miss B. so L. personally conducted her which he continued to do for the rest of the voyage. H. now fell into line and drove with me to the two Stalheim waterfalls, the Stalheimfoss & the Seivefoss. After tea at the hotel & a short wait for a shower of rain, H. & I tramped ¾ of the way before our pony overtook us. Both on the way up & down we met the 6 “gruppen” of Victoria Luise (Hamburg) excursionists.2 We understood that it was not a very “grosse” German princess & her train that had caused us to alter our plans, although one gros German required a four-wheeler all to himself.


On the way home the 2nd accident occurred, one of the ponies stumbled on a stone, then shied & crashed the trap3 into one of the boundary stones of the road; the stolkjaer crumpled up. One of its occupants clung to a wheel4 & escaped much damage beyond severe leg bruises, the other was thrown over onto his head & shoulders and broke his collar-bone (no displacement) & had some nasty scalp wounds. After attending to him I sat down to a late dinner in the saloon at 10. pm. Then L., H., Miss B & I sat out on deck till 11.45 pm. in daylight, & after a brief stay in the smoke-room, when Miss B. & her mother had turned in, read the passenger list at 12.5 by daylight.

MONDAY. Up the North Fjord, stopped at [unreadable three letter name I am unable to decypher], & were kept waiting ½hr because two passengers were too lazy to get up in time to take their breakfast by 8.am. when we arrived. On this day, L. being otherwise engaged, I was requested by a committee to get names for a deck billiards contest among the passengers, & also for deck quoits. I had very little luck for we soon came to the Seven Sisters & the Pulpit Rock.5It was during this day that I found so useful a powerful telescope belonging to a Mr Robinson a camera fiend, whose sister was Miss B.’s cabin companion. H. & I at midday in Loen, installed ourselves in a stolkjaer, but we travelled 3 & a driver that day, so I got into one in front beside a Mr & Mrs Maughan of

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of Maryport, a brother, I think of the Rev Maughn of Lanercost Vicarage, & a cousin of old Mr Heslopof Burtholm, whose greyhounds (we were once afraid of the dogs & often used to go round to the front door rather than face them in the farmyard) he has kept since Mr Heslop’s death. He is the proper sort of Cumberland gentleman farmer, and could not see enough of the farming conditions in Norway on his excursions, & was rather disappointed with the expeditions on this account. ON the Lodelen we sat on the corrugated iron roof.6 We drove up to the Kjendalsbrae and L. helped H. to climb up into an ice cavern, in spite of the captain’s warning that the ice might fall. L. very cleverly replied that if it fell the people underneath would be more likely to suffer than he would on top. Two ladies fell out of a trap on this expedition, & one sprained her ankle, & being Scotch, made light of it. We lunched at the upper end of Loen Lake & brought up from Loen in the steamer our waitresses dressed in national costume of scarlet with tinsel brooches hanging everywhere.7 The views were splendid, & it was scorching on the steamer, from which my surgical scissors took a header on to the jetty. While we were waiting after lunch, L. distinguished himself, when sent by Miss B. for her jersey, he carried off by mistake another lady’s cerise cloth jacket, & caused her, Miss Ward, ¾ hour’s acute anxiety, & the rest of us no little amusement. On this expedition it was arranged that a dance be held in fancy dress. One lady wore Norwegian national costume, but had perforce to retire in the middle of dinner because, like Buglas clothes “it held her back”.8 I borrowed H’s stock & a Presbyterian Minister’s jacket & H went as a tramp with a red scarf, clay pipe, & dinner jacket turned up over his ears. L. was splendidly cool in a borrowed cook’s costume. The captain very kindly offered his uniform to a lady whom he thought they would fit. I never yet made out what Miss B.’s make up was She had her hair down & some sort of short skirts. After a good deal of ragging we retired to bed rather early at 12.45.pm. With the steamer rolling it was very hard trying to waltz to a Norwegian jig tune to which we found the cooks, stewardesses & two boat boys dancing the Saturday before

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  1. The typescript only shows “fines”. []
  2. The blue riband winning liner Deutschland was renamed the Viktoria Luise in 1910 when she was refitted as one of the first dedicated cruise ships. This change was made because her engines rattled the whole ship if they were run at full power as in the time constrained Atlantic crossings. Not long after this cruise, she was again refitted as a naval auxiliary cruiser, but because of the engine problems she was not used as such. She ended her life, under the name Hansa, as an emigrant carrier. []
  3. The English name for a basic two-wheeled pony carriage. []
  4. The typescript is unclear here but looks like “whe” followed by an e and l superimposed. []
  5. The rock now usualy refered to as “Pulpit Rock” is on a different fjord further south, I believe this reference is to Hornelen a mountain producing what is reputed to be the highest seacliff in Europe, see photo. []
  6. Presumably mentioned ironically since this vilage is noted for it’s buildings with “living roofs”. See photo. []
  7. The examples of Norwegian national costumes available today seem subdued by comparison with this description, perhaps already then livelier versions were worn for tourists 😉 []
  8. I cannot identify this reference perhaps you can help? []

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