Hayter & I started in a taxi at 11pm, met Laala4 on the Norwegian wharf. No food or coffee being obtainable, H & I turned in early but owing to the stuffiness of the night & a heated argument as to the respective length of our berths, did not get to sleep before 2am.
Weds. Breakfast 9am (very poor coffee) in the morning when quite comfortably ensconced on the deck reading Three in Norway5 was called to prescribe for a lady with mal-de-mer. Retired precipitately to make up medicines, & for other reasons. Hayter too succumbed. Few appeared for lunch and fewer for dinner of which H & I partook with caution (Gruyere being substituted for Gorgonzola etc.) Four cases of mal-de-mer & one of appendicitis.
Thurs. 7am Stavanger called, which I inspected through the porthole H could not be roused even to do this. Water from overflow pipe of bath 2 inches deep under my bed, & 1 inch deep in the medicine chest – ½ bandages & ¼ lint had to be thrown away spoilt. Bright sunshine after breakfast. 4:30pm Landed Appendicitis Stewardess after consultation with Dr Hansa, a brother of the Norwegian Dr who discovered Lepra Bacillus.6
H. did not feel inclined to drive to Fantoft church, so L. and I, after inspecting Strangarde, found a carriage with a hood and leisurely avoided the ruck of 20 or 30 stolkjaerre carrying our party. Beautiful view of the lake from the church which is quite like a pagoda, return drive past the old cemetery – how carefully the graves are tended, roses, begonias, lobelia, & without a weed, just like a flower garden: each grave 18 inches or so above the surrounding grass, with stone borders. In consequence of mistaking a Norwegian 9 for 8 we arrived an hour late for dinner in a restaurant (Cafe Grand) opposite the Norge Hotel. L. on the strength of his deposit book, cashed a cheque at Cooks for ₤20, much to his surprise.
- Transcribed from a typescript by Tim Bulkeley, in 2015, and annotated with assistance from Lyn Bulkeley. [↩]
- This date appears at the head of the typescript, but is inaccurate, the events described can be dated precisely from the fact that the Imperial German High Seas Fleet Hochseeflotte is recorded as leaving the Norwegian Fiords on Sunday 26th July 1914. [↩]
- Can be dated as 21st July 1914. [↩]
- L.A.H.’s youngest brother Henry Ion Bulkeley, who met his future wife on this trip. L.A.H. was already engaged to Mary Elizabeth Moore Lawrence. [↩]
- Lees, J. A., and Walter J. Clutterbuck. Three in Norway: by Two of Them. London: Longmans, Green, 1882. This humorous travel diary may have been the inspiration for Jerome’s Three Men in a Boat, it is still read by fly-fishers and has been reprinted recently as well as being available at Project Gutenberg. [↩]
- Presumably in the light of this identification the name was Hansen, as Armauer Hansen identified mycobacterium leprae. [↩]